Even though we’d seen some spectacular photos of Plitvice Lakes National Park (Plitvička Jezera) and its waterfalls, it surpassed all our expectations. I mean, the place is magical. I think the relative solitude we had and the mist, made everything more impressive. This is the kind of place where fairytales are imagined.
It was a like Krka National Park on steroids.
Plitvice National Park
We arrived in the evening and only had time to take in the view from Entrance 1. The big waterfall (78-meter Veliki slap), many of the smaller falls, and the boardwalk on Loop B filled our view. We all got very psyched about the next day when we could get down there. We also took a very short walk through some of the old growth beech forest that makes up most of the park.
When we asked about other hikes the next day, the ranger told us “it is impossible” and that we would be eaten by bears and wolves if we walked alone. Fortunately, we come from the land of grizzly bears and wolves and weren’t too worried about it.
Plitvice Lakes is a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site that sees more than one million visitors a year. The 16 surface lakes are connected by rivers and waterfalls and separated by natural travertine dams. (See my Krka post for more information on the karst topography and limestone bedrock that forms these parks.)
Plitvice National Park is a must-see on any Croatia itinerary.
In summer, the place is packed. From what I hear, there are two single file lines on the boardwalks–one going each direction. Getting off the boardwalk isn’t an option in most places. Even though the weather in Plitvice in December was chilly, we were once again glad to be visiting in the off season.
We started our walk on Loop B the next morning since the ranger told us that was the only place we could go. It was amazing – big waterfalls, cascades, turquoise water, scenic boardwalks between lakes, a cave, so much goodness. We walked the loop for several hours, taking photos every 30 seconds, then stopped for tea, coffee, and hot cocoa at the ferry dock. The ferry took us to a bus stop, and the bus to another stop where we walked back to where we started.
If you are visiting with little kiddos, make sure to check out these tips for visiting Plitvice with kids.
That evening we walked a couple easy miles from our Airbnb rental to another loop of waterfalls. We also figured out that “closed” doesn’t mean inaccessible, only that buses and ferries aren’t running. We easily could have continued from the ferry dock that afternoon to these, and other falls, then walked back to our apartment.
Despite getting there late and only having a short time before dark, we were once again blown away by the falls. Thank goodness we got off our butts (and me up from my nap!), and got out to see this. Again, there were only two other people there and we only saw them for a minute. We had this wonderland to ourselves.
Where to Stay in Plitvice Lakes National Park
We stayed on the edge of Plitvice National Park the next two nights and used Airbnb to make our reservations, but we could have gotten this same apartment on Booking.com. Apartman Yoya had a full kitchen, so we cooked breakfast and dinner there. It was an easy walk into the park or to the bus stop. There was a grocery store and restaurant within a couple minute’s walk.
Get $35 off your first Airbnb rental.
Where to Eat in Plitvice Lakes National Park
Where to Eat in Plitvice Lakes National ParkEven in the off season, there are restaurants and cafés open in the park. Plus there are restaurants in the towns at either end of the Plitvice Lakes. We packed snacks and lunch for the day, but could easily have filled up at the cafés scattered throughout the park. Of course, we got hot beverages to warm up while waiting for the ferry.
There is a list of restaurants on the park website. 
Getting to Plitvice Lakes National Park
We rented a car, but you could easily do a trip on the bus. Once you arrive, there are frequent buses and boats to move you around the park. Bus and boat rides are included in your park admission and many places you can’t access via a car anyway.
Plitvice is a must-stop on any road trip through the Balkans, There are also companies that do day trips from Zagreb and Split, but you may want more than one day in the park. We spent a full day walking around and never even got to the other sections of the park.
Caveat: In winter there is just one ferry in Plitvice, but the buses were still running and you can drive directly to more areas. Or walk there from your hotel in Plitvice National Park.
Another fun trip to take is from Dubrovnik to Venice through Croatia, Slovenia, and Austria.
Fees for Plitvice Lakes National Park
There are also two-day tickets and parking is extra.
Resources
Lonely Planet: Croatia Travel Guide
Our favorite site for vacation rentals is VRBO and there are a bunch in Croatia.
First-time Airbnb users can get $35 off with this link.
Read About Our Time in Croatia
- Ten Things to Do in Hvar, Croatia
- Krka National Park
- Plitvice Lakes National Park
- Zagreb Christmas Market
- From Montenegro to Austria via Serbia and Croatia
- Five Favorite Hikes in Europe
- Books Set in Croatia
- Traditional Croatian Foods to Try During Travels
This looks like a great place for a family hike! I love the paths as that makes walking with the kids easier.
It really is great for all ages!
Oh this is so great!! Loving hearing about it and so loving the pictures—Heavenly place.
It was one of the most fairy-like places I’ve ever been!
“This is the kind of place where fairy tales are imagined” – yes! Perfect description, Melynda.
Thank you! I kept thinking that over and over.
Croatia has been on my list for far too long! Your photos look amazing and I am such a sucker for a good waterfall! I’ll have to definitely check out Plitvice Lakes whenever I go! 🙂
If you like waterfalls, you will be head over heels about Plitvice and Krka! And they are close enough together that you can see both parks in a few days.
The Plitvice Lakes National Park looks amazing, I’d never heard of this place. I will be in Croatia this fall so will definitely visit. I’ll take the bus to get there that you recommended. You took a great range of photos, it would be interesting to see this place on a clear sunny day. Let’s hope it’s clear the day I go this fall! Were there many Pokemon around?
I think it is outlandishly lovely on a beautiful day. We traded crowds for sunshine, but I think you will love it! And there are Pokemon at the ferry dock (that’s the only place we turned it on). That photo of my son with Poliwag was taken there 🙂
Great post. I’ve heard of these beautiful lakes. I would love to go one day.
You won’t be disappointed — it was gorgeous!
What a beautiful place! We always travel with the kids and find hiking to be a great way to explore. I love how hiking in the quiet always leads to wonderful conversations. 🙂 Great travel memories. THIS looks like a fantastic place to visit!
I agree– some of our best conversations take place when we are walking.
Wow, I just fell in love with this place. Headed to Split in May so saving this to review again when my trip gets closer. How brave you were to venture through the park in the winter but your efforts sure paid off. The scenery sure looks amazing so you must have captured it well. Thanks for such an informative article.
We loved Split, too. So glad you have a Croatia trip planned!
A 78 meter fall is definitely huge. And I also like the trek path around it. Totally loved the place. Although never been to this part of the world
It was an unexpected delight!
I’m dying to visit Croatia! The lakes and waterfalls look stunning, it’s such a surreal place. I wish I lived closer to this amazing ladscape.
It really is beautiful. From the waterfalls to the beaches to everything in between!
We went to Croatia only cos Ankur wanted to see Plitvice and we fell in love with the waterfalls. It poured when we were there and our pictures aren’t too great. Thanks for sharing details on accommodation and food!
It could be a little tough in the rain. Hope it was a good experience anyway!
If I go to Croatia, this would be number one on my list – along with a few other attractions. This is one of those spots wherein you just watch in amazement for how gorgeous nature can be. I’ve also seen photos of the national park in winter and it turns into a winter wonderland of sorts. Just unbelievably gorgeous!
I wish we had seen it in snow, but it was pretty gorgeous this way, too. Make sure you get there if you are in Croatia!
Plitvice Natioval Park looks sensational. I’m hoping to make it to Croatia in 2019. The waterfalls look amazing!
Make sure you visit Plitvice on your trip! Krka National Park is also quite beautiful.
Wow. I thought Iceland had it down with waterfalls, but this one is GORGEOUS! What wonderful things nature creates. And your pictures are stunning too!
We were pretty blown away by the waterfalls!